One of my favorite qualities about wax seals is how unique each and every one is. Like a snowflake, it’s almost impossible to find two that are exactly the same—despite using the same stamp over and over. Often the edge of the seal is different, the way the wax dries or is poured plays a big role in the overall appearance as well.
I personally favor the more organic, uneven edge. I love the imperfect, fine art vibe that it gives off—especially when paired with the more structured qualities of a stamp. But if you’re going for a more modern, minimal vibe, there is nothing more beautiful than a perfectly round wax seal, stamped to perfection. Arguably the hardest edge effect to achieve, the perfectly round wax seal takes a little more care and attention but might not be as difficult to master as you think!

In this blog post and video tutorial, I’m going to share with you my tips for creating a perfectly round wax seal in this step by step tutorial!

Watch on Youtube

Supplies:

Melting Gun / Glue Gun: https://bit.ly/3R3aWf8
Melting Spoon: https://bit.ly/3u7l9NG
Mini Mat (silicone): https://paperocelot.com/collections/waxseals/products/stamper-matte
Heron 3D Stamper: https://bit.ly/3Od78VX
Vintage Peony 3D Stamper: https://bit.ly/3AVacCV
Botanical Initial Stamper: Available upon inquiry
Blushed Bride Stamper: https://bit.ly/3bt4c9L
Cherry Blossom Stamper: https://paperocelot.com/collections/waxseals/products/cherry-blossom-1
Sealing wax: https://bit.ly/3IHtfCJ
- Antique Gold https://bit.ly/3z9a29W
- Silver Sage https://bit.ly/3yKS786
- Prosecco https://bit.ly/3uStrcy
- Vellum https://bit.ly/3OhZrxE
- Rose Gold https://bit.ly/3ASMqHV

For the sake of consistency, I’m going to assume that you are using a 1” diameter wax seal for this project. This is my personal favorite size and the most popular among wax seal companies today. If you are using a different size, you will want to test a little and adjust some of these tips accordingly!

1- Avoid a Blemish

Bubbles on wax seals are akin to large blemishes on a pretty face. While it can be overlooked, when you’re seeking that perfectly round wax seal look a bubble can quickly give you an asymmetrical and unintentional aesthetic. To avoid bubbles in your wax, be sure to keep the melting temperature low.

If you’re using a glue gun or melting gun (my preferred technique) then you will either way to switch the setting to “low” or occasionally turn off your gun to give the wax time to cool.

If you’re using a melting spoon, be sure to keep the flame away from the spoon and give the wax a moment to cool down before you pour. If the wax is “boiling”, then it’s too hot.

2- Pouring Technique

The technique used to pour your wax is the key to getting the desired shape. A sloppy pour will result in a “sloppy” edge with a more organic effect. Though it is trendy and fun to keep your glue gun or spoon high and allow the wax to pour and drizzle in a satisfying way, it is not the best technique to use if you’re hoping to achieve a minimal, round edge.

Pour your wax low and close to your surface (envelope, baking paper or silicone mat). The more perfect the circle of the wax, the more likely that your end result will be perfect! Now if your wax “blob” (for lack of a better term) is more oval or has some irregularities, fear not! It does not mean that you will be unable to bring a beautiful wax seal out of it. Wax is forgiving to a degree—just try to keep the wax as close as possible.

3 - Just Enough Wax

For a 1” wax seal, I find that a full pump of wax from a melting gun is juuuust about perfect. For 3D designs such as my Vintage Peony or Heron designs, I recommend adding at least half a pump more. Don’t overthink this too much—just test it out until you find your perfect fit! If you’re using melting beads, I find tend to use 3 of Artisaire’s brand to get the effect that I am looking for (you have to have enough wax “push” some out of the spoon), adding just one more bead or two after that. My experience with melting beads is limited for other brands, so you will just have to test out how much is needed to get the right effect. If the lip of the wax seal (the edge) is thick or lumpy, add less wax. If the edge is uneven all the way around and almost disappears in one or two places, then add more wax!

4 - Stamper Placement

Time to make some magic happen! Now that your wax is at the right temperature (avoiding future wax seal zits!) and has been carefully placed down onto your surface, it’s time to place the stamper itself. Don’t feel like you have to rush this step—while the wax will start to cool immediately, it wont’ be too hard immediately so take a deep breath before you place the stamp.

The goal is to be as even as possible. You’re aiming for the very center of the wax “blob” with your wax seal stamp and you want to keep the pressure even as you place it so that access wax does not “spill out” more on one side than another. I’ve found this step to be a little more forgiving as well if you’re slow and steady. Occasionally I find that my wax is heavier on one side than I anticipated. Careful adjustment (SLOWLY!) towards the heavier side can correct this and give the opposing side more of the coveted wax.

5 - Let The Wax Set or “cool”

Once your stamper is down, the hard part is done! All you need to do now is avoid a finger print by not touching the wax seal until it is completely cool. Give the wax seal a minimum of 5 seconds to cool. I like to give it at least 10 seconds myself! But the process does go faster if you have chilled your stamper before hand (more details on this here). If you give a little pull on the stamper and the wax moves or seems to wiggle with it, then let it go back down. Wait until the wax is firm and resists the pull or separates completely.

And there you have it! A perfectly beautiful, round wax seal. Perfect for your minimal or modern wedding aesthetic, snail mail or personal preference.